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marksatterfield
Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Jan 7 2009, 1:36 PM EST | Post edited: Jan 7 2009, 1:36 PM EST
Hi,

The Rustoleum gallon can says next coat can be applied after 24 hours of dry time. Any ideas on how to reduce the drying time? Are there activators available for Rustoleum Enamel?

Interest is in repainting car.

Thanks much!
--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

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Posted Anonymously
1. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Jan 8 2009, 2:56 PM EST | Post edited: Jan 8 2009, 2:56 PM EST
If you thin it with mineral spirits, that will dramatically reduce the drying time. I thinned it 50-50 with mineral spirits, and I used 6 hours as my rule of thumb recoat time. I suppose that climate would also affect it, so it would probably take longer in a cooler or more humid climate than summer Arizona.

No, there is no activator made specifically for 1-part alkyd enamels. You can try acrylic activator, but it may cause unexpected results. Waiting for paint to dry can be a hassle, I recommend scheduling your time so you have a different project to work on while it is drying.
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olfart63
2. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Feb 5 2009, 4:09 AM EST | Post edited: Feb 5 2009, 4:09 AM EST
there is a activator for oil base paints sold at the tractor supply store in my home town in indiana. it says it will work with all oil base paints, cuts the drying time, adds shine, and makes the paint harder. runs about 12.00 for enough for 1 gal. of paint. i haven`t used it yet but i will as soon as the weather brakes. still would make a pretty cheap paint job! 2  out of 2 found this valuable. Do you?    

Posted Anonymously
3. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
May 5 2009, 4:01 PM EDT | Post edited: May 5 2009, 4:01 PM EDT
how is it aginst uv rays 4  out of 6 found this valuable. Do you?    

Posted Anonymously
4. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
May 5 2009, 8:19 PM EDT | Post edited: May 5 2009, 8:19 PM EDT
So far (four months) the car is holding up very well. From a conversation I had with Rustoleum, the spokesman said the paint does have UV protection. I cannot confirm nor deny that, since I do not have UV test equipment. Should be a pretty simple test, though.

It took a VERY long time to harden, like 60 days or more. I wound up painting it without an activator, using acetone as a thinner (very fast drying compared to mineral spirits, like 100:1 or so). The paint is fairly hard now, though. I waxed it twice.

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com


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Posted Anonymously
5. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
May 6 2009, 12:00 PM EDT | Post edited: May 6 2009, 12:00 PM EDT
can it be clear coated 1  out of 2 found this valuable. Do you?    

marksatterfield
6. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
May 7 2009, 4:32 AM EDT | Post edited: May 7 2009, 4:32 AM EDT
"can it be clear coated "
There are clears available from Rustoleum; however, I'm not sure that I would clear coat it.

I've had a few "repair" areas to fix, one of which happened with a rock that landed on the hood. Fixing it was a charm! I sanded the area down to get the dent out and the wax off, wiped it with mineral spirits, and shot it with a dab from a $4 spray can of the same color. Let it dry for a few weeks, then waxed it.

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com
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Posted Anonymously
7. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Aug 16 2009, 5:00 PM EDT | Post edited: Aug 16 2009, 5:00 PM EDT
That is exactly true...just used it with sunrise red rustolium,work graet and seems to be drying quikly!!! 2  out of 2 found this valuable. Do you?    

Posted Anonymously
8. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Apr 1 2010, 5:25 PM EDT | Post edited: Apr 1 2010, 5:25 PM EDT
i have been restoring two late '60s model lawn tractors and decided to paint them as practice for a car i am getting ready to paint i also used the sunrise red rustoleum then since i had everything dis assembled decided to do a test. i wet sanded the front grill with 800 grit wet/dry paper and then took the hood and left it unsanded i wiped them both with tack cloth and then shot them with a clear poly-urethane gloss clear coat bought at walmart and i did this all in one afternoon with the temp in the mid 70's that was three weeks ago and both came out stunning ! however i will say that the hood left unsanded looked much better under the clear coat once they hardened i wet sanded and buffed the clear and WOW! i havent seen a better paint job for under $35 1  out of 1 found this valuable. Do you?    

Posted Anonymously
9. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Apr 1 2010, 5:27 PM EDT | Post edited: Apr 1 2010, 5:27 PM EDT
oh concerning the above to adress the topic of thinning i did thin the rustoleum with paint thinner (100% mineral spirits) 50-50 4  out of 4 found this valuable. Do you?    

marksatterfield
10. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Apr 1 2010, 6:11 PM EDT | Post edited: Apr 1 2010, 6:11 PM EDT
ONE YEAR UPDATE

So I wound up with quite a bit of orange peel. A year later, the orange peel area looks horrible. It does not take wax well, and just has no shine at all.

One area is perfectly smooth (thinned properly, and went on smooth), and that area looks GREAT!

I tried polishing compound, but that was not abrasive enough.

I am not able to take the car out of commission for a week again, so what I am likely to do is wet sand areas (such as the hood, trunk, and top), and shoot them again.

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

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Posted Anonymously
11. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Sep 21 2011, 1:30 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 21 2011, 1:30 AM EDT
"ONE YEAR UPDATE

So I wound up with quite a bit of orange peel. A year later, the orange peel area looks horrible. It does not take wax well, and just has no shine at all.

One area is perfectly smooth (thinned properly, and went on smooth), and that area looks GREAT!

I tried polishing compound, but that was not abrasive enough.

I am not able to take the car out of commission for a week again, so what I am likely to do is wet sand areas (such as the hood, trunk, and top), and shoot them again.

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

"
Thanks for telling everyone how it worked out. Paint jobs can go bad over a year.

Can you think of anything you did different on the section that turned out really good?
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marksatterfield
12. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Sep 21 2011, 6:17 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 21 2011, 6:17 AM EDT
TWO AND A HALF YEAR UPDATE

Okay, it is now September 2011, two and a half years since my first paint job. I've repainted parts of the car, because the last job just did not stand up very well. Here are some notes.

* Roller method

I tried the "roll on" method. It is very difficult! Although there is less masking off required, the paint was just difficult to make flat.

* Sanding

Sanding is more important than I thought. Make sure to sand everything, or else the paint won't stick. So... what I did was
* Sand with 80 to get rid of the orange peel from the prior job, wash the car. Let it dry.
* Sand with 150. Wash the car. Let it dry. Make sure that all areas are thoroughly scuffed with 150. If in doubt, sand it again.
* Sand with 220. Wash the car. Let it dry. Look for any areas that appear shiny or otherwise not the "same" as the properly sanded areas. If in doubt, sand it again. And again. And again.

If you run it down to 220, you'll probably be okay. I don't think that 440 is required for Rustoleum to lay smooth, although the smoother the better. If anyone else has thoughts, would love to hear it.

* Repaint

So I think a few of my issues with the orange peel included
* "fanning" too much (on the control on the sprayer). Reduce the fanning, which increases the atomization pressure, which makes smaller drops.
* Not enough paint sprayed. It seems that when paining, the paint has to be sprayed to the point "just before" running. Too little, and the surface isn't smooth. Too much, and the runs occur. This just takes practice.

(more to follow)

http://www.marksatterfield.com
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marksatterfield
13. RE: Rustoleum Professional dry time - reducing the 24 hour recoat time
Sep 21 2011, 6:22 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 21 2011, 6:25 AM EDT
Two more things...

* Sectioning

So on this repaint, I have sectioned out the car. Why? Because I need practice! I don't want to wind up with a big orange peel blob again.

The first section was the trunk, which I rollered. It was way more difficult than I expected.

The second section was the hood, which I sprayed. What I learned was that spraying heavy was good, and that air pressure was super important. Not too much fan (on the spray control knob), which results in more atomization pressure. You'll have to play with your gun.

The third section was the rest of the front area -- that is, bumper, and fenders. This third section didn't turn out quite as nicely as the hood, because I was still getting used to the fan control.

I still have several sections to go. Basically, anywhere a body panel comes together with another body panel could be a section. The more sections, the more opportunity to reflect on the job you will have.

* Waxing

I'm not sure how well the paint will hold up with waxing. I'm letting it dry really good before I try that.




http://www.marksatterfield.com

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